Maria Island: Part 2 ~ AUS Post #32

April 12-1

Day Four - Isthmus

As morning broke, it was even more clear - one more day was not going to be enough. We wanted to explore across the Isthmus and also ride the inland track over to hike Mt Maria. Unable to choose between them, Nivaun once again called up to rearrange our departure. Over breakfast, we watched the pelicans join the resident sea birds along the shore and spotted what we think was a small solitary pilot whale cruising the bay.

Before heading to the Isthmus, we decided to finish the loop around Point Lesueur past the convict cells historical site and then explore the coastline at Return Point.

At the point, we rode down the hill weaving between wombats, when I noticed two and then a third Wedgetail Eagle take off from the tree tops. Before I could get Nivaun’s attention, I discovered they had taken down a young paddie, now missing the flesh on one of its hind legs. Just ahead, we sat at the edge of another pristine white sand beach and had our own snack break, while we waited to see if the eagles would return. After watching only one of them circle high above, we rode toward the Isthmus.

It was a sandy track, but still easily navigated atop our unburdened fat tire steeds. The track was lined with beautifully stunted trees, waist-high grasses and an abundance of bird song giving our surroundings a tropical feel. Being the only ones on a stretch of land only a few meters wide in the midst of the Tasman Sea was quite a contrast to riding a narrow strip of bitumen amidst tourist traffic crossing the Bruny Neck. We stopped in the middle to survey the beach on the other side at Riedle Bay and were stunned at the pristine beauty of the waves rolling in - the turquoise waves stretched almost the length of the beach, rising above the bluest of blues onto the white sand was a visual display unlike any other ocean we have seen.

Middle of the Isthmus - Looking across toward Chinaman’s Bay & Point Lesueur (left)

Middle of the Isthmus ~ Shoal Bay (left) & Riedle Bay (right)

By the time we reached the South Island, it was late afternoon and we knew it was time to turn around unless we wanted to ride back in the dark. After riding a ways into the forest on the Haunted Bay track, the thought of a shower won over. We retreated and arrived back in time to shower and make dinner before twilight.

Day Five - Mt. Maria

By 9:30 the next morning, we were back on the bikes with only a day pack, heading to the Inland track to ride 11km to the Mt. Maria trailhead. The Inland track did not disappoint and was the closest we had been to mountain biking since we arrived in Australia. With every rutty hill climb, we were still thanking Aaron of West Coast Ride for our new gears.

From the trailhead, it was supposed to be a 3km walk with some rock scrambling near the top. In the first couple kilometers, we were amazed at how the forest changed from an overgrown tunnel of thick bush with sand underfoot, to almost a rainforest of moss and ferns with rocks covering a narrow track. We had grown accustomed to not relying on water sources anywhere in the back country, when all of a sudden across our path was the tiniest of trickles - we concluded it must be the headwaters of Four Mile Creek that makes its finally journey to the sea through the marsh before Encampment campground.

A glimpse of what lies beyond the tunnel of bush…

The track follows a ridge line before heading straight up to the top, but the forest is so dense there is no visual reference - it wasn’t until we reached the last boulder field, that we finally saw the top of the mountain. And I did say last boulder field - there were two, not counting the one in the forest that we thought might have been the start of the boulder hopping - it wasn’t. Just a mental note - when tracks in Tasmania include a “boulder scramble” - it is no joke.

We both thought we knew what to expect, but these were some huge boulders. After traversing them a short distance along the hillside, we then got a view from the corner of what else was ahead of us - more so, above us. The boulders increased in size and went straight up, disappeared into a section of forest, and then reappeared again at such a steep angle that we could just barely see the marker at the top. Needless to say, we made it, and as much as I dreaded coming back down, it was actually less nerve-wracking the second time around.

It wasn’t until just before we started the boulder section that we actually heard other voices. Moments later, we were overtaken by a group of young Columbians. After our summit pics, and a celebratory snack break on a ledge overlooking the Northern end of the island, we realized with the ever-shortening days, we only had a couple hours left until sunset.

McRae Isthmus & South Island & our little camp on the edge of Chinaman’s Bay at Point Lesueur (Summit-719 meter elevation)

This crazy “little” 3km hike had taken us over 2 hours to ascend 634 meters and we still had to get down and ride 12km back to camp.

Descending back into the depths of the forest…

It was nearing dusk by the time we retrieved our bikes from their hiding spot and continued on the Inland track about 2kms to reach the main road. It was the wildest, fastest and rockiest track we had ridden, including two creek fords. Thankfully no animals tried to become speed bumps as we careened down to the main road. Rounding the corner, we caught the last bit of sunset with 10km left to camp.

It was our first time ever cycling under the cover of darkness and we hoped just maybe a Tassie Devil would cross our path. Traveling side-by-side, our headlights aglow, we easily spotted the wombats ahead of us and rode along unobstructed, until the shine of four eyes in the middle of the road brought us to a stop - a group of young possums stared back at us momentarily and then scattered into the bush.

After reaching the turn-off to the marsh near our campground, we still had not seen a devil. And then like magic, a dark cat-sized image appeared at the edge of the road across from the marsh. Our headlights confirmed it was indeed a devil. He stared back at us for a few seconds before taking off alongside the road. We followed at a distance for a few meters, before he dashed off further into the grasses and disappeared. On our last night - our trip to Maria was now complete!

Day Six - Return

Even though it felt like we could stay here for weeks, we had reached the bottom of our food bag for the first time, ever. Somehow we had managed to stretch a 3 day food supply to 6 days. We took our time packing up after breakfast, and reluctantly headed toward Darlington under a perfectly blue sky, amidst the crisp fall air, past the pristine coastline, paddies and wallabies bounding out of sight as we passed by, wombats reluctantly waddling off to a safe distance - this place had simply been magic.

Ironically, the one spot that evaded us due to timing of the tides, lighting, and tourists, was the most publicized spot - the Painted Cliffs. We tried to capture a few images nearby. Unfortunately, the prime photographic spot had become a beach lover’s paradise.

Not the Painted Cliffs

The Painted Cliffs

Instead, we rode to the boat ramp dropped our gear and went to the visitor’s center to watch the video about the arrival of the first devils on the island.

Our timing to visit Maria couldn’t have been better - it was a perfect way to celebrate the week “the boys that captured my heart” first entered this world. And we got to spend it enjoying all that we love about nature.