Being in the Now ~ Nov 3-6, #3
As we left our first campground and turned onto the bike trail tracing the edges of the coastline from Beachlands to Maraetai we turned inland heading south toward Clevendon from there we would turn back towards the coast to Kawakawa Bay and then tackle our first formidable climb to arrive at Orere Point, about 576 meters of elevation in 50 kilometers.
Maraetai shoreline
We followed the multi-use path from the campground, along the edges of the beachfront for about 7km, gazing across the Hauraki Gulf, until its end. Rounding the corner to head inland, we got our first experience riding two-lane roads through North Island farmland and small communities. Within a couple kilometers, we discovered keeping one eye on the edge of the road was key to avoid unexpectedly dropping about 6-10 inches off the bitumen into the gravel or a ditch. After being warned more than once about drivers in New Zealand, we were relieved to find most vehicles were giving us room enough to stay atop the bitumen.
Tea and Biscuits
Mid-afternoon, at about the half-way point, we decided to stop at a bridge outside of Clevendon for a lunch break, and then continued on down the road.
We had only covered a couple more kilometers when a car passed us by, then made a u-turn on the side road just ahead of us. Seconds later, as the driver got out and started crossing the road, we realized it was the same passenger from the ferry that had invited us to stay at his holiday homes. Another chance meeting, but this time, we were just a few kilometers from his farm, and he had pulled over to invite us to come by for “tea and biscuits”. After a brief hesitation over the hour, distance and climb still ahead of us, we agreed to stop in for a quick visit.
We turned onto his gravel road past a large paddock of cows, over a stone bridge, through a large metal gate, down a lane lined with overarching trees, past a paddock of sheep, rounded the corner past a stretch of native trees and bush, up to his home with views out across the surrounding hillside.
From his back deck, we leisurely sipped cups of tea, ate ginger biscuits and spent more than a quick visit getting to know each other and sharing adventures. An avid cyclist, he was also planning to ride the Te Araroa this coming year. Before long, “tea and biscuits” turned into an overnight stay, followed by an invitation to take a walk around their family farm, up to the ridgeline and across the surrounding hillside before dinner.
Never thought I would get to stand inside a “Windows” screen saver
While we walked, he organized dinner plans, so we could meet up with his wife back at the house later that evening for pizza and champagne around a crackling fireplace. As we slipped under the down duvet in the guest cottage that night, we couldn’t believe how the angst of our first day of road riding and hill climbing had transformed into such an unexpected treat.
The next morning after breakfast, we turned back onto the main road and headed toward the coastline. Our hosts recommended stopping at the Clevendon Coast Oyster shop. It was early, but we were able to get a package of frozen mussels to carry with us and tried a cup of Oyster chowder for mid-morning tea. As we sat at a bright blue picnic table, atop a bed of oyster shells, we could of easily been sitting alongside our own Hood Canal. Funny how even thousands of miles from home, familiarities follow us still.
Orere Point
Ahead was the dreaded climb, but as it unfolded, around every bend was more beauty to behold. It was our first experience riding amongst the forest, and my thoughts were easily distracted, leaving my body to cope on its’ own with the demands of moving forward.
Descent to Orere Point
After a welcome descent into the valley, we arrived in the seaside community of Orere Point at the general store with one thought on our minds ~ something creamy and cold. It was there I found my all time favorite ice cream bar and enjoyed every bite, questioning how long to wait before consuming another one.
After setting up our tent at the holiday park in a wide grassy field covered in daisies with trees towering around its edges, we went to see the stream running down below and were amazed at the beauty of the setting. The stream ran along a steep hillside covered in a mix of bushes and ferns interspersed with mature trees towering over the banks, branches and roots extending down to soak in the moisture below. A shady haven for a small gathering of ducks, and a lone Canadian goose serenely treading water in a deep pool, appearing half asleep.
We walked along the stony bank, marveling at the small divets carved into the wall on the opposite side forming a series of miniature caves just above the waterline. As we searched for signs of life near the water’s edge, a long slender shape curled in between the rocks began to move upstream revealing its full form - we had met a native species of the sea, a New Zealand Longfin Eel or in Maori, a Tuna.
No Guarantees
Before continuing along the coastline, we took a rest day to walk down to the shore line. From here, we would be following the Northern edge of the Firth of Thames, to the start of our first “Great Ride” in New Zealand, the Hauraki rail trail with the Coromandel peninsula as our backdrop.
Our hosts in Clevedon recommended staying at the Tapapakanga Beachfront campground just 8km beyond Orere Point. The thought of a short day and a serene spot on the beach, away from civilization, to wait out the results of our Election Day back home seemed perfect…..until it wasn’t.
We left the next day with heavy hearts, disenchanted with humanity, and our entire future of engaging with the world put in serious jeopardy. It was all we could do to summon up reminders of how grateful we were to be here, now, living moment to moment, realizing our dream, with no guarantees - one day to the next.
Tapapakanga on a fateful day
Living a life of uncertainty on our own terms felt doomed to expire.