Victoria ~ Lake Bound
Lake Colac & Lakefront multi-use path
May 28-June 2, AUS Post 39
Our plans to head west to ride our first “epic” cycle trail in mainland Australia now postponed. We set a new course circling back around through the “midlands” of Victoria, zig-zaging our way toward the NE on gravel roads in between paddocks, and on rail trails, through farm towns, some merely a name on a map with no remaining infrastructure, and others a bustling historic mining town full of centuries old architecture and tourist attractions. Our destination, Yackandandah, a quaint village in the High Country, ~300 kms/3.5 hours by car NE of Melbourne, by the end of June.
From Forrest, our route would take us over 30 days, riding 898 kms through the towns of Colac, Lismore, Ballarat, Bendigo, Heathcote, Murchison, Violet Town, Glenrowan, Wangaratta, and Beechworth, where we would meet up with our friends and ride the last 36 kms into Yackandandah, to finally arrive at their home patch, nestled in a picturesque valley dotted with small farms along a backdrop of the Alpine National Park.
Lake Colac
We arrived in Colac via the Old Beechy rail trail, which by the end had schooled us on the fact that in Australia “rail trail” doesnt always mean easy grades.
Our reward was a tree-covered lawn on the lakefront, home to a variety of water fowl, creating a scenic backdrop to sit out another round of weather and appreciate the ever-changing moods of the lake.
To our surprise, we weren’t the only ones taking shelter amongst the trees. In the botanical gardens across the road, Grey-headed Flying Foxes were dangling from almost every barren branch, wrapped tightly in their wings, their little bodies buffeted by the incessant wind. We stood in amazement. To actually see them up close weathering the elements at the edge of the lake next to a neighborhood expanse was more than we would have ever expected.
If we had any lingering doubts about our change in plans, they were quickly dispelled on our first morning in Colac. A ute pulled up alongside us at the local bakery, and the man that got out just happened to be the person we needed to meet. He had spotted us on our way into town and pulled over just to find out what we were up to.
A welcome encounter with a “Trail Angel”
As it turned out, he manages crews that build and maintain the major walking trails all across Australia. After telling him how much we marveled over the many artfully crafted stone steps at Cape Raol in Tasmania, he confirmed it was his crew that built them, giving us the opportunity to express our gratitude for how well they were designed and maintained. But what was even more providential, was hearing that his son manages a TREK store in Melbourne and is always up for a challenge when it comes to solving bike mechanicals. Before he left, we had his son’s contact information to present our bottom bracket conundrum and see if he would be willing to help us find a replacement.
As the wind blew over the next couple days, we rode along the lakeshore, treated ourselves to baked goods, Mediterranean cuisine and toured the neighborhood streets looking at the varied architecture. Even our lakefront caravan park dated back to the 1950s with “ensuites” next to every pull through caravan site. According to the manager, they were created to accommodate the early caravans that were simply a bed on wheels.
Lake Corangamite
Volcanic landscape tucked under a carpet of green
On the other side of Lake Colac, stretched out before us were rolling hills carpeted in green, dotted with more farm houses, cattle and sheep, reminiscent of picturesque paintings of idyllic Australian farm life. It wasn’t until we reached the small town of Cororooke and stopped at the local park that our perspective of the landscape shifted to thinking about how dramatically the land had changed in just the last two centuries - no longer evolving on nature’s terms. Instead of riding for days through native temperate grasslands and Eucalypt woodlands - we would be passing by remnants tucked into “reserves” landlocked and disconnected in an agricultural expanse.
As we made our way over to Lake Corangamite, Australia’s largest permanent saline lake, evidence of the volcanic landscape underlying the surrounding farmland grew more apparent. Dry rock walls made of volcanic rock lined farm houses and paddocks. We wondered how old they might be and whose hands had so artfully constructed them to last possibly hundreds of years. It wasn’t until we reached the next town of Lismore, that we discovered the history behind them.
Once the saline lake was in view, we began scanning the roadside for a possible wild camp. Tucked into a clump of bushy trees just out of view from the road above, we had a perfect vantage point to watch the sun drop behind the lake and wait for the dark sky to illuminate with southern stars.
Lismore
The next day we never seemed to lose site of the expansive saline lake until we headed further North to the town of Lismore. As we wove our way through the pastoral landscape, roadside landmarks gave us glimpses into pieces of the past.
Within minutes of arriving in Lismore, our bikes caught the attention of the locals outside the pub. One in particular let us know he was simply “gob-smacked” and extended us a hearty Australian welcome.
After realizing there really was not much else in the two blocks of main street other than the standard take-away cafe - Australian’s equivalent to small town fast food, we decided to return to the pub for dinner. Once inside, it was apparent we were to be ring-side to the ritual mayhem that was the Sunday afternoon snooker tournament, starring locals as well as the pub staff and owner. Between the free-flowing, good-natured sparring and the 80s tunes pumping from the jukebox - it was without a doubt the most unique and authentic dining entertainment we had experienced.
We took our “powernap” at the campground across from the pub and left Lismore the next morning to meet up with the Skipton rail trail that would take us all the way to Ballarat, our first historic mining town, where we were told to visit a must-see attraction, Sovereign Hill.