Victoria ~ Where the Koalas Live
May 17 - 24, AUS Post #37
Anglesea
Our plan from Anglesea was to ride out to Aireys Inlet to visit the Split Point lighthouse and then head up into the Great Otways National Park to find our first koalas. A string of downpours kept us in Anglesea for a few more nights. Even though Torquay had become a world-class surf town, it’s neighbor, Anglesea, was still managing to retain its laid-back small coastal town vibe. Our campsite was just off the beach, tucked within the Moonah woodland at the edge of the campground, within walking/biking distance to the shopping village. Between downpours, we explored the coastline and stocked up for our trip into the Otways.
The first couple days we had the tent camping area to ourselves and the local wildlife. In the mornings, we shared our tree canopy with the surprisingly curious Crimson Rosellas and the Red Wattle birds.
And in the afternoon, when the sun would make an appearance, the grass lawn around the camp kitchen became the lounge for the ever so casual Eastern Grays. It appeared they had claimed this caravan park as their own getaway from the hazards of farm life. Watching them laze in the sun, old males scratching their bellies and Joeys annoying their mums made for the best dining entertainment.
Aireys Inlet
Once the rain let up, we opted for the Great Ocean trail instead of the road up to the Split Point light house. Following the advice of the guys we met on the streets of Melbourne, we setup at the caravan park and headed to the brewery for dinner next to a roaring fireplace.
In the morning, we left the coast behind and followed a back country road up into the hills until we found the sign for “Gentle Annie Track”. We were both a bit skeptical about any track through the forest being “gentle” but nothing could dissuade us from the thought of sleeping amongst the koalas hoping to hear them roar. On the way, a young gal in full makeup on an e-bike with her cattle dog shot past us. We didn’t see her again until we reached our turn-off and she was heading back. She stopped to inform us that the track ahead was beautiful, but full of steep climbs that she would only ride on horseback.
We took comfort in hearing it was navigable and continued on, scanning the tree tops to our left as we went. To our right, a controlled burn had left behind blackened trunks with bright splashes of regrowth creating a stark contrast from the dense bush just a few meters across the track. Mid-way up the ridge, it occurred to us we hadn’t asked her about water, leaving us wondering whether any of the creeks on the map would be viable.
Controlled burn area
By the time we decided to make camp for the night, we hadn’t seen any signs of koala or water. Searching the map for any creeks crossing a nearby track, we found one deep in the ravine below us, close enough we could get there on foot. The next morning with rain in the forecast, we decided to stay another night and walk down to see if we could find the creek.
After walking a couple kilometers up our track, we peered around the gate in disbelief at the one heading down into the ravine. It barely resembled a 4WD track - the ruts and bumps were so deep. We both took a moment to reconsider whether it was worth the trek - but of course our curiosity prevailed and we ambled on over and around the battered track. After more than one steep pitch, the forest turned from ashen relics to verdant bush reminding us of Tasmania.
Rather than crossing the road, the creek appeared to be trapped in pools on both sides. If it was moving, it was at an imperceptible pace lost beneath our feet. After marveling at the surrounding forest of towering Gum and Tree Fern, we scooped up enough water to refill our bottles and climbed back up the ravine.
By the time we left the next morning, we had topped off our bottles with rain collected off our tarp, to resume our search in earnest for the elusive “fur-balls”. If the koalas were here, they had yet to make themselves known. We suspected the curious crescent moon-shaped marks we had found on a few Gums nearby could be markings of their ascents, but wondered whether the recent burn would have pushed them out of the area.
About midway along the ridge line after pushing up one of the steeper hills, we decided it was time for a break. We were past the burn, and the track was now lined by a sizable grassy shoulder. A couple large Gums with enough ground clearance at their base to lean our bikes called out to us. It wasn't more than a few seconds later that I heard a branch snap far above my head instantly commanding my attention. There was no wind and no reason for a branch to break on its own. As I scanned the branches, I had to do a double-take, before realizing, we had found our first koala - apparently still trying to take a mid-day snooze, whilst hanging by all four limbs. We felt so fortunate to have chosen to take our break there and under that exact tree.
Feeling quite accomplished, we cruised along the rest of Gentle Annie track, never seeing a single vehicle or person. The last section felt almost park-like, meandering along the ridge line through a section of forest that felt untouched, draped in a verdant cloak. At the intersection to the main road, we braved a few kilometers on the narrow highway to stay at the Big Hill campground in the Great Otway National Park, where we had been told to look for a local resident, the King Parrots, conditioned to frequent visitors and always eager for a handout.
Gentle Annie ~ did not disappoint!