Alaska - Hospitality Alaska-style: Fox
April 30, 2023
After a brief stop back at the store to grind the coffee beans we bought the night before, the sun was out, and we were ready to climb again, up past Chena Hot Springs Road turnoff, meandering through the hillside heading North, we descended into Fox by late afternoon.
RUAT YBYSAIA Time Warp
I was excited to stop at what I thought was the only tavern, in this little unincorporated town, called the “Turtle Club”. I learned of its existence from a long-time Fox resident while sitting in the hot springs at Chena the week before. After an enjoyable conversation about his early years in Alaska, life in Fox, and sharing travel adventures, I had hoped to find him again, so Nivaun could meet him as well.
It was a little after 4pm when we rolled into the gravel lot zig-zagging through the row of pickup trucks surrounding the building. We nosed our bikes in alongside the entrance ramp and stepped inside to find a cozy bar filled with locals and glass cases full of turtle figurines above every bench seat. As we settled into a booth, unsure about whether to eat or just have a beer; one look at the menu, and without question, it was dinner time!
The menu filled one side of a paper placemat which instantly took me back to my childhood days when paper placemat menus were commonplace and regularly used to entertain kids before meals. Even the menu choices were reminiscent of ones traditionally found in fine dining restaurants years ago. Prime Rib, Lobster, King Crab all with complementary salad bar, baked potato with all the toppings, and oven-warmed bread. After enjoying a local beer, we were directed to the salad bar, back toward the entrance and down the hallway. There I discovered the actual dining room where every table was formally set, complete with water goblets, napkins and tablecloths. In the middle of the room, the salad bar was a fixture to behold post-2020, at least to a veggie-craving cyclist, it was filled with everything an old school salad bar could feature right down to the bowl of packaged breadsticks that I hadn’t seen in decades. Needless to say our salad plate was heaped with goodness and devoured with delight; anticipating this would be our last time to have such choices in front of us for the next couple weeks.
Finding places that transport one’s self back in time can bring comfort to the soul in unexpected ways. Although, no longer having either of my parents to share in our discoveries, the recall of childhood moments felt bittersweet.
While we waited for our dinner, I had to find out if the staff knew the man I had met at Chena, and sure enough he was sitting at the bar. It was a nice surprise to catch up with him again and introduce Nivaun. After enjoying our Prime Rib, we were still unsure of where to stay nearby. But just as we were getting ready to pull out, a Fairbanks local gave us some suggestions on where to camp and invited us to come by his place for a coffee when we returned to town.
If you are curious about the actual history behind the Turtle Club and RUAT YBYSAIA, check out this link.
Fate is a funny thing
Our closest option to camp was the only RV park in the area, Northern Moosed RV Park, but no one knew if they would be open for the season this early. We agreed it was still worth a try before heading any further. As we rolled up to the main building at nearly 6pm there was no indication it was open. An office number, posted on the door, rang, but no answer. Just then we heard someone talking from inside a carport tent at the side of the driveway. His dogs were already barking their way towards us when he emerged, and started walking our direction, bare foot, still on the phone.
Since we’d already interrupted his call, amidst the barking, we tried to make our interest in staying the night known. He promptly ended his call, curious where we were travelling by bike. Understanding our situation, he said, “Oh, I can call the owners and you can probably stay in the spot right here next to me”.
Sure enough, that is exactly how it unfolded. Within the next few minutes, we met the owner, who agreed we could stay the night next to our unexpected host. They would not be open until mid May, but welcomed us anyway offering hot showers, laundry and use of the reception area to warm up if needed.
Alaska hospitality was continuing to show up and would stay with us for years to come - we just didn’t know it yet…